Whirlpool Dryer Not Heating: 7 Common Causes and How to Fix Them

A Whirlpool dryer that tumbles but doesn't produce heat is one of the most frustrating appliance problems. Your clothes come out just as wet as when they went in, and every cycle is wasted time and electricity. Whether you own a Whirlpool Cabrio (WED5000DW), Duet (WED9750WW), or a standard top-load model (WED4815EW), the causes of no-heat are remarkably consistent across the lineup.

The good news: most Whirlpool dryer heating problems are caused by inexpensive parts that are relatively straightforward to diagnose and replace. This guide walks you through all seven common causes, from the most likely to the least, with specific part numbers and step-by-step instructions.

Before You Start: Safety and Basics

Electrical safety: Electric dryers run on 240V, which is lethal. Always unplug the dryer before any repair. For gas dryers, also turn off the gas supply valve.

Basic checks first:

• Verify the dryer is set to a heat cycle (not Air Fluff or No Heat).
• Confirm both breakers in the electrical panel are ON. A 240V dryer circuit uses a double-pole breaker — if one pole trips, the dryer may tumble (on 120V) but not heat (which requires the full 240V).
• For gas dryers, confirm the gas supply valve behind the dryer is in the open position.

1. Blown Thermal Fuse (Most Common Cause)

The thermal fuse is a one-time-use safety device that blows when it detects excessive heat in the exhaust path, cutting power to the heating element permanently until replaced. This is the #1 cause of a Whirlpool dryer not heating, accounting for approximately 40% of all no-heat service calls.

Why it blows:

• Clogged lint screen or vent duct (the most common trigger)
• Restricted exhaust vent (crushed, kinked, or too long)
• Failed cycling thermostat that didn't regulate temperature
• One-time overheating event

Location: On most Whirlpool dryers, the thermal fuse is located on the blower housing or the exhaust duct inside the dryer. On top-load models like the WED4815EW, it's on the blower housing at the back. On Duet front-load models, it's on the blower housing accessible from the rear panel.

How to test:

1. Unplug the dryer.
2. Remove the back panel (4–6 screws).
3. Locate the thermal fuse — a small, flat, oval-shaped component with two wires.
4. Disconnect the wires and test for continuity with a multimeter. A good fuse shows continuity (near 0 ohms). A blown fuse shows no continuity (open circuit).

Whirlpool thermal fuse part numbers:

• WP3392519 — Most common, fits hundreds of Whirlpool/Kenmore dryer models
• WP3390719 — Some older top-load models

Cost: $5–$15 for the part. DIY replacement takes 20–30 minutes.

Critical: Always find and fix the root cause of the blown fuse before replacing it. If the vent is clogged, the new fuse will blow again. Clean the entire vent duct from the dryer to the outside wall before installing a new fuse.

2. Clogged Dryer Vent

A clogged or restricted dryer vent doesn't technically prevent the dryer from heating — it causes the dryer to overheat and blow the thermal fuse, which then prevents heating. But since the vent is the root cause in most no-heat situations, it deserves its own section.

Signs of a clogged vent:

• Drying times have gradually increased over months
• Clothes are very hot but still damp after a full cycle
• The outside vent flap doesn't open when the dryer runs
• Excessive lint around the dryer or laundry area
• The laundry room feels unusually hot and humid

How to clean:

1. Pull the dryer away from the wall and disconnect the vent hose.
2. Use a dryer vent brush kit (a long, flexible brush — about $20–$30) to clean both the hose and the duct running through the wall.
3. Go outside and clean from the exterior vent opening inward.
4. Vacuum any loose lint from the dryer's blower housing area.
5. Reconnect the vent hose. Use metal vent hose — never vinyl or thin foil, which are fire hazards and restrict airflow.

Vent specifications:

• Maximum vent length: 25 feet for straight runs (reduce by 5 feet for each 90° elbow).
• Material: Rigid or semi-rigid metal duct only.
• Exterior vent: Should have a flap that opens when the dryer runs, not a screen (screens clog with lint).

Maintenance: Clean the vent duct at least once per year. Homes with heavy dryer use should clean every 6 months. This is also a critical fire safety practice — clogged dryer vents cause approximately 15,000 house fires per year in the US.

3. Defective Heating Element (Electric Dryers)

The heating element is a coil of resistance wire that generates heat when electricity flows through it. Over time, the coil can break, usually from repeated heating-and-cooling cycles causing metal fatigue.

Symptoms:

• No heat at all (if the coil breaks completely)
• Reduced heat (if the coil partially breaks, it still heats but at lower wattage)
• The dryer trips the breaker when it tries to heat

Location: On most Whirlpool dryers, the heating element is housed in a metal can at the rear or bottom of the unit.

How to test:

1. Unplug the dryer and remove the back panel.
2. Locate the heating element housing — a cylindrical metal enclosure with wire connections.
3. Disconnect the wires and test for continuity. A good element should read 10–50 ohms (lower resistance = higher wattage). An open circuit means a broken coil.
4. Visually inspect the coil if possible. Look for a break in the wire or a section touching the housing (ground fault).

Common Whirlpool heating element part numbers:

• WP3387747 — Fits most standard Whirlpool/Kenmore electric dryers (4400W)
• W10864898 — Some newer models
• WP8544771 — Whirlpool Duet/front-load models

Cost: $20–$50 for the part. Professional replacement runs $150–$250 total.

4. Bad Gas Valve Solenoids (Gas Dryers)

Gas dryers use solenoid-operated gas valves to control gas flow to the burner. These solenoids can weaken over time, causing intermittent or no heating.

Symptoms:

• Dryer heats initially then stops producing heat mid-cycle
• You can hear the igniter glow but the gas doesn't ignite
• Intermittent heating — works sometimes, not other times

How to diagnose:

1. Remove the lower front panel to observe the burner assembly.
2. Start a heat cycle and watch the igniter (a glowing orange bar).
3. If the igniter glows for 15–20 seconds but the gas doesn't ignite (no blue flame), the gas valve solenoids are failing to open.
4. If the igniter glows briefly and then the gas ignites, but later in the cycle the gas fails to ignite on subsequent calls for heat, the solenoids are intermittently failing.

Part number: WP279834 (gas valve solenoid kit, comes as a set of 2–3 coils). Always replace all solenoids as a set even if only one has failed.

Cost: $10–$25 for the solenoid kit. Professional repair runs $150–$200 total.

5. Faulty Cycling Thermostat

The cycling thermostat regulates dryer temperature by cycling the heating element (or gas burner) on and off. If it fails in the open position, the heater never activates.

Location: On the blower housing or exhaust duct, near the thermal fuse. It looks similar to the thermal fuse but is typically round rather than oval.

How to test:

1. Unplug the dryer.
2. Disconnect the thermostat wires and test for continuity at room temperature. It should show continuity (closed) when cool.
3. Part WP3387134 fits most Whirlpool models.

Cost: $8–$20 for the part.

6. Broken Igniter (Gas Dryers)

The igniter is a flat silicon carbide bar that glows orange-hot to ignite the gas. It's a consumable part that eventually burns out.

Symptoms:

• No heat at all from a gas dryer
• No visible glow from the burner area when a heat cycle starts

How to test:

1. Remove the lower front panel.
2. Start a heat cycle and look for the igniter glow. If it doesn't glow at all, it's broken.
3. Unplug the dryer and test the igniter for continuity. A good igniter reads 50–400 ohms. Open circuit means it's burned out.

Part number: WP4391996 for most Whirlpool/Kenmore gas dryers.

Cost: $15–$35 for the part. Replacement takes about 30 minutes.

7. Failed Timer or Control Board

The timer (on mechanical models) or the electronic control board (on newer models) directs electricity to the heating circuit at the appropriate time during the cycle.

Symptoms:

• The dryer advances through cycles normally but never sends power to the heater
• Other symptoms don't match the above causes
• The timer contacts for the heat circuit show no continuity when they should be closed

How to diagnose:

1. This is typically a diagnosis of elimination — test all the above components first.
2. For mechanical timers, test the timer contacts that control the heating circuit. Refer to the wiring diagram (usually mounted inside the back panel or the control console) to identify which timer terminals control the heater.
3. For electronic control boards (Whirlpool Duet and newer models), check for visible damage like burned components or swollen capacitors.

Cost: Timer replacement is $40–$80. Electronic control board replacement runs $100–$300 for the part.

Quick Diagnostic Flowchart

Follow this order to efficiently diagnose your Whirlpool dryer:

1. Check the breaker — Both poles of the 240V breaker must be ON.
2. Test the thermal fuse — Most common cause; takes 5 minutes to test.
3. Inspect the vent — If the thermal fuse is blown, the vent is almost certainly the root cause.
4. Test the heating element (electric) or observe the igniter (gas).
5. Test the cycling thermostat.
6. Check gas valve solenoids (gas dryers) or check the high-limit thermostat (electric).
7. Suspect the timer/control board only after eliminating all other causes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Why does my Whirlpool dryer run but not heat? A: The most common cause is a blown thermal fuse (WP3392519), typically triggered by a clogged lint vent. Test the fuse for continuity with a multimeter — if it reads open circuit, replace it. Before installing the new fuse, clean the entire vent duct from dryer to outside wall to prevent the new fuse from blowing.

Q: How much does it cost to fix a Whirlpool dryer that won't heat? A: The cost depends on the failed component: thermal fuse ($5–$15 DIY, $100–$150 professional), heating element ($20–$50 DIY, $150–$250 professional), gas valve solenoids ($10–$25 DIY, $150–$200 professional). The most expensive common repair is a control board at $200–$400 professional.

Q: Can a clogged dryer vent cause a fire? A: Yes. According to the National Fire Protection Association, clogged dryer vents are the leading cause of dryer fires, responsible for approximately 15,000 residential fires per year in the US. Lint is highly flammable, and a restricted vent traps heat inside the dryer. Clean your vent at least annually and use only rigid metal duct material.

Q: How often should I replace the Whirlpool dryer thermal fuse? A: A thermal fuse should never blow under normal operating conditions. If yours has blown, something caused an overheating condition (usually a clogged vent). Fix the root cause and the replacement fuse should last the life of the dryer. If your dryer has blown two or more thermal fuses, there's a persistent problem that needs professional diagnosis.

Q: Is it cheaper to repair or replace my Whirlpool dryer? A: Whirlpool dryers are generally cost-effective to repair. Most heating issues cost $100–$250 for professional repair, while a comparable new Whirlpool dryer costs $600–$900. Unless your dryer is over 12 years old and has a major component failure (motor, control board + heating element), repair is almost always the smarter financial choice.

When to Call a Professional

While many Whirlpool dryer repairs are DIY-friendly, call a professional in these situations:

• Gas dryer repairs — If you're not comfortable working with gas lines and connections, always call a professional. Gas leaks are dangerous and potentially life-threatening.
• Repeated thermal fuse failures — If you've replaced the fuse and cleaned the vent but it keeps blowing, there may be a cycling thermostat failure, restricted internal ductwork, or a heater element touching its housing.
• Electrical diagnosis — If you don't own a multimeter or aren't comfortable testing 240V circuits, professional help is safer.
• Control board issues — Electronic control boards require specific diagnostic knowledge and sometimes reprogramming after replacement.
• The dryer trips the breaker — This indicates a short circuit somewhere in the heating circuit, which could be in the element, wiring, or terminal block. A technician can safely isolate the fault.

Professional dryer repair saves time and eliminates the risk of misdiagnosis, where replacing the wrong part wastes money and doesn't fix the problem.

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